Lawn FAQ

Got a question? You can count on the professionals at Sylvan Nursery to help you find a solution. We've got the products to solve any turf problem, plus the right seed, fertilizers and soil to do the job right. If you have a questions we hope that you will contact us.

Commonly Ask Questions with Outstanding Answers

Q 1.)
How do I know if I should aerate or power-rake my yard and when should I do them?

A 1.)
Aerating is one of the best cultural practices you should perform on your turf areas. Aerating opens up compacted soils. The breaking down of the cores is vital to help spread microbiological organizims through the thatch layer where they can break this layer down. This action allows oxygen, water, and nutrients to get down through the upper soil and thatch and penetrate to the root zone. Aerating compacted soils also allows grass roots to create a larger and deeper root zone. Spring and fall are great times to aerate.
Power-raking is a do as needed service.

To tell if you need to do this, check your thatch level. Thatch is a build-up of root and stem material, not really the common belief of leftover lawn clippings. Standard healthy lawns should be cut at 2” to 2 ½” during cooler weather and 3” to 3 ½” when the temperatures get hot, and should have a thatch level of about ¾”. You can get a core sample to help gauge the thickness, and this will also help you to see your soil structure.
Lawns established from sod can have large amounts of thatch built up even if the sod has been in only a few years. Seeded yards take much longer to build thatch.

A couple of problems we are seeing with thatch build up are, very shallow root zones with roots actually growing back into the thatch layer, because they are trying to get to water and nutrients not penetrating to the actual soil, and turf fungus that have found a nice place to hide.

We like to power-rake in the spring of the year when the lawn is getting ready to green-up and before core aerating and spring fertilizing has been done.

Q 2.)
What type of Fertilization program do you recommend for my yard?

A 2.)
We recommend a consistent feeding program that is tailored to your yard.
If you are not fighting any fungus or disease, we recommend fertilizing every 6-8 weeks with a quality slow release fertilizer. Quality sources of nitrogen are slower in release rate and allow the plant to have a proper up-take of nutrients. You want to stay away from the fast release lower quality fertilizer that causes the lawn to react with a feast then famine effect, which can cause a yard to become stressed and susceptible to fungus and diseases.
Start in March with a 15-15-15 type of blend something with higher phosphorus and potassium, lower nitrogen, and include iron and sulfur. Some manufactures are producing blends with a very low staining iron sources so you do not have to have unsightly stains if you happen to have some escape on to any concrete. Remember to protect the environment and not waste fertilizer off of the turf area.

Identification of what the letters N-P-K-S-Fe stand for will help decide what product to get; N is for Nitrogen, the P for Phosphorous, K for Potassium, S for Sulfur, and Fe is for Iron. All fertilizers will show the N-P-K formula and it will always be in the same order. There are other minor elements that may be available in specialty fertilizers also.

Move to a higher nitrogen source for the second and third applications, something in the 23-8-8 ball park, your yard may have different needs so a soil analysis may help to get you a specific formula. Return in the fall with a low nitrogen, high potassium, and high phosphorus winterizing fertilizer to encourage root growth, disease resistance and cold hardiness. Sulfur helps to lower the pH level in alkaline soils and iron helps green the plants.
Another consideration to fertilizing is weed control. A separate application to control weeds helps to ensure the proper timing of the application.

The 1st type of application to apply is a pre-emergent (before the weed germinates). This chemical is applied during the dormant season. The chemical needs to penetrate in to the soil or area the seed is lying in, before the seed pops out of its protective case, the seed is then killed in the beginning of it growing cycle. This method is great for preventing further weed infestation and long term weed free yards, but can not kill perennial weeds or weeds already established. This is a great way to prevent crab-grass and quack-grass from taking hold in your yard. This is a non-selective herbicide and you would not want to have this in areas that you would be planting favorable seeds, such as gardens and flower beds. Pre-emergent control has to be applied before the soil temperature reaches 55° F. Weed seeds will germinate early in the spring if it is warm. Some applications may be considered for the fall.

The 2nd type is a Contact Broadleaf control. Contacts controls have to be applied directly to the weed that is up and noticeable so the chemical actually lands on and is taken in by the leaf material. This is a great way to kill broadleaf weeds that are established in the yard. This method does not kill undesirable grasses such as quack-grass; it only kills broadleaf weeds it contacts.

Weed and feed types do not do well if applied early in the season before the established weed has exposed itself or if the weed is still in seed form.
Granule types of contact weed kill have a harder time staying on the leaf material then liquids, so be sure to follow all label instructions.

Q 3)
What are some ways I can control fungus in my plants and lawn.

A 3)
The best course of action for any fungus control is preventive controls.
1. Keep thatch and leaves cleaned up so spores will not have a place to take hold.
2. Fertilize at lower, but consistent levels, & follow recommended label rates.
3. Water during hours of low humidity so the droplets will run to the ground, and not sit on the leaf material. Watering in the morning instead of in the evening is better.
4. Create a healthy biotic environment, a healthier plant and lawn system will be able to fight off fungus and disease on its own.
5. Apply preventative fungicide at the correct time of year or they will not work.
6. Identify and treat possible infection early.

Proud of your lawn? Why not submit your photo of your lawn. The lawn care professionals at Sylvan Nursery can help you create a lawn you'll be proud of. Picture perfect results with help from Scott's and Sylvan Nursery!